Turquoise beaches above the Arctic Circle, violet skies at midday, saunas beside the sea, and the possibility of an aurora after dinner. Between Tromsø and Sommarøy, the weeks before the winter solstice offer a rather different way to experience Northern Norway. On Sommarøy, the water can look almost tropical. The air tells a different story. White-sand beaches meet cold Atlantic water, fishing boats move between small islands, and mountains rise behind houses painted red and